14 Dec. 2011: FROM HOI AN TO NHA TRANG

We had the daylight yesterday to wander Hoi An again, rice paddies to artists to river scenes: really captivating. Then another Camel Sleeper bus 13 hours to Nha Trang. Bus was smaller but the night better because we had learned to get bunks together and up front. Although the highway is the famed Ho Chi Minh Trail, it was grooved and washed out and potholed as if it was still being bombed. So it took 13 hours for 240km / 150 miles! And rained all night.

Arrived dawnish at Nha Trang, the best beach in Vietnam and so-called party-town. First, we're in the off-season so the water is not the postcard turquoise. Second, all the partiers here now are Russians and French ---- vodka and wine shooters?? But the bay is dotted with natural islands and the shore walk has been upgraded with sculptures, cafes, topiary, and palapas. My people, the Russians, were frolicking in the surf. Nha Trang is at 12 degrees north latitude (same as Nicaragua or Thailand) so the sea is warm and we are finally in shorts. And the rain stopped.

We have splurged on a 320 sq. ft. room at 28,600 dong (=$13.50). Top floor of the Forget-Me-Not hotel (formerly The Tulip, both names good omens for my Garden Girl). So far it feels like a gentle walkable neighbourhood with pineapple pancakes and pumpkin soup. And how did they know I wanted to rent a bike??