GA-GA OVER GANNETS (#2 OF TWO POSTS TODAY, SPECIAL MID-WEEK...)

This was SPECIAL! Down a long sideroad to the bottom of the Avalon Peninsula is Cape St. Mary's. In the middle of flat treeless rocky plains stands a Welcoming Centre, like a ghost of the settlers here in the 1500's. But it's for real, and at the end of a 2km hike that could break both your ankles is an awesome show of nature to take away your breath (and not just from the smell of guano!)..

The most thrilling sight of 70,000 pairs of  Murres, Kittiwakes, Razorbills ---- but mostly 20,000 nesting pairs of Northern Gannets!! The "bird rock" is perfectly niched and ledged and shelved and crested for all these winged wonders. Hard to describe the scene in words, so here are a few of the hundreds of pix...

It's the largest accessible colony of Gannets, the most southerly colony of Murres, the biggest flocks of Guillemots, and other superlatives. Spectacular. jaw-dropping, ultimate, the highlight of the trip.

Forgive this selfie, it's a record of a rare other-worldly feeling. And then up the coast we saw a familiar iceberg --- can you see the gannet dipping it's neck??

And for a full sense of the scene, here are some captivating raw videos. Click on the link and turn up the volume!

Bird Rock Newfoundland

AND click on this screen for intimate closeups!!

AROUND THE AVALON (FIRST OF 2 POSTS TODAY, SPECIAL MID-WEEK...)

The Avalon Peninsula is one of many chunks of Newfie rock sticking out into the seas. As you roam the area, it becomes more and more obvious how much of North American origins and history started around here. All because this was the first landfall for early mariners from France, Spain, Portugal, Britain, Ireland and more. Bona Vista is Newfoundland's first national park, for instance. It displays traces of heroic whaling combined with modern ecological sensitivity.

Down the road is Gambo, birthplace of Joey Smallwood. Newfoundland didn't join Canada until 1949, and Joey was Premier at the time, so he's the 10th "Father of Confederation". Then Gander, the middle of Newf and a crossroads of global aviation because it's the first refueling stop from Europe. Gander is known for the catastrophic crash of a U.S. military plane in 1985. 285 perished on takeoff, ironically after 2 years of peacekeeping. But Gander is also celebrated for the safe welcome mat on tragic 9/11. 37 passenger flights diverted here and the town of 2000 sheltered 6700 stranded souls! (This heroic story is portrayed in this year's Tony-winning play "Come From Away".)

Newfoundland's glory days centered around wealth generated by the cod fishery and offshore oil rigs, the first long gone and the second drastically cut back. An aging oil refinery stubbornly carries on in aptly named Come By Chance. And fishing towns here and there survive by bringing in a few cod but a lot more crab and shellfish.

History also pops up --- literally ---in remnants of hilltop forts. One is Chapel Hill, where France and Britain fought over ---what else---the cod fishery in the 1600's to 1800's. At the base is Placentia, where two churches continue the division between Catholics and Protestants. It's also the dock for the overnight ferry to Nova Scotia.

GOOD FORTUNE TO FRANCE IN FOG (First of 3 posts today)

In a major anti-climax, the water pump was finally fixed after 50 days. I’ll post the photo proof in a couple of weeks. We had one day to get our hands dirty and enjoy an indoor hot shower. Pat worked in her thyme zone and the next morning we flew to another time zone. Arrived in St. John’s Newfoundland, got a bland Ford rental, and drove west south-west. 200 kms through spruce and pine scrub that looked a lot like northern Ontario! Saw a moose within the first 10 minutes but not another since. Down to the town of Fortune, mostly foggy…

But it’s also the border with France! Yup, the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon just 40 miles offshore are territories of France. Mais oui!

And there’s no overlap with Canada. Passports, prices in euros, only French spoken, TV from Paris, 220 volt electricity, absolutely no chain stores or food outlets. A wonderful hop into Europe. The historic core is now surrounded by newer areas but with pop. 6,400 the pastel charm is all there. We stayed at Marie Jo’s chez and had the typical croissant and café au lait. (Note the SPM on the licence plate...)

Daily fog and a late start to the tourist season made it all the better to wander the streets, exchange some bonjours, and roam/climb the island. All rock, so even the newest tombs are above ground. Note the Toronto Maple Leafs and Elvis on this one. The Garden Girl was impressed by raised veggie beds and sub-alpine meadow growth. The Car Guy admired the small but cool French cars, even though they drove like speed trials around the Eiffel Tower.

Truly an enchanting place when you consider it’s France even though most of the residents have never been to France. This jai alai court proves the Basques were here early. Even Canadian ships arrive as a foreigner. Bad weather prevented us from going to Miquelon --- it even delayed the First-Day-Of-Summer-Music-Fete til the second day of summer. Pat noted how many kids there were, especially those about 4 or 5 years old. Hmmmm...