IN WITH A BANG, OUT WITH A BUS RIDE

Our 33-days are up and we're moving down the coast from Puerto Vallarta early tomorrow morning. The time seems to have passed quickly but on the other hand we have really come to know this place well. The rental condo has been so comfortable and private yet with a spectacular view day or night. The climate couldn't be better ---- warm breezy tropical nights and bright sunny days (if you like that sort of thing!).  This town has really grown on us, on the list for a future longstay for sure.

Life goes on. On our walk today we passed a familiar sight ---- an Education Fair trying to recruit students to various colleges, just like we used to do in our Seneca careers. And the unfamiliar ---- guys with guitars jumping on buses to make a few pesos singing "Stand By Me" (appropriate for the passengers in the aisle!). The picture is fuzzy because the buses lurch and bang over the rough cobblestones. Ah, Vallarta!

So we're packing today --- no less stuff than when we arrived but no more either.  In the morning we'll get on the Primera Plus bus to Manzanillo,  joining the other colourful locals. Tonight a last stroll with the human circus on the malecon, and a last free sample of coconut shrimp. We arrived to fireworks, we're leaving to fiery sunset. Stay tuned...

HOW DO YOU LIKE YOUR BEEF DIPPED?

We can't leave PV without mentioning the gay scene. Vallarta is the biggest and friendliest gay destination in all Mexico. Although that means male, female, and transgendered, I would say the most obvious and visible are 98% gay guys. Their iconic symbol is the rainbow "flag" in many different styles.

We knew our building was in Gay Centro and it has been a mixed blessing. On the one hand, the dance music and loud laughter have been fun to be in. And as in any city, the gay community really enables the local art galleries, live theatre, and other cultural events. (There's no bothering straights like me, although Pat says I could make a lot of new friends if I went out on the street on my own!) The only drawback of our location is the nightly drag show-and-tell; we have heard the act many times on our balcony. The em-shee sounds like a cross between PeeWee Herman and the old whiny Jerry Lewis!

We are next door to the world-famous Blue Chairs Resort/Spa/Beach. (It's so popular that there are imitations --- on the left is "Green Chairs" and on the right is a plain rip-off of the same colour beach chairs!) Think of your favourite resort, but crowded exclusively with gay men of all sizes, shapes, ages, and nationalities. It has 9 stories but thousands of stories! Can you see the Statue of Liberty on the roof? Blue Chairs is HQ for all the gay events of the year. Right now it's "Beef Dip" week. How would you like YOUR beef dipped??

SOUTHERN EXPOSURE

Took another driving daytrip yesterday, along the south shore road this time. Same curiosity of a rental car as last time ---- a Hyundai (Korean brand) Dodge (Chrysler USA brand). Typical beauty spots and scenic lookouts along the way. Every cove with a river flowing down from the mountains has evolved into a fishing settlement or beach-shack spot or both. Exotic names --- Yalapa, Mismaloya, Boca de Tomatlan, etc.

Then the jungle road climbs to 2000 feet altitude  to the lost-in-time village of El Tuito. Much cooler, quieter,  more authentic Mexican activity. An old guy rests next to the Revolutionary War hero's statue. The town's bandstand awaits the Saturday night miriachi brass. The rocky roads are brutally potholed, sharp-edged, and unchanged since ---- the Revolution?? Send donations for brake jobs, suspension parts, and tires!

A backroad on the return temporarily turns into smooth pavement --- must be the home of a local politician or druglord? But The Gardener in the passenger seat says the steep shoulders are dry soil almost totally lacking in nutrients. No lush farms here. Back in PV before sunset, we pass a familiar gringo marina area where the boats are bigger than above but Mexico is nowhere in sight. Fishing outboard or cruiser ---- which size floats your boat??

MOON WAVES

Our neighbourhood is called "Olas Altos" (high waves) because the steep drop-off of the shore creates high waves every day. But this week's full moon combined with high tide is generating super-slammers that can sound like cannon fire when the curl smashes into the sand. It's loud up here on the 9th floor but at sea level it's a 747 every 15 seconds.

Mini-tsunamis pour into the palapa area, creating a calm pond for beginner boarders and dog-swimming alike. But the local boogie-boarders are in surf heaven, timing out the sea-surge and running to ride it. It's not a long ride from far-out in the water. It's just run, glide-out to the wave, ride up the curl, sharp turn on the crest, and ride it back to the shore. Takes about 12-15 seconds and the rad-ride is to arrive back at the exact spot you left from. But it's fun to try even for us hot-doggers. Put your Beach Boy songs on max, Surf's up!

THE PCC AND ALL THAT JAZZ

Only a 5 minute walk from us is the Paradise Community Centre. It's a hidden gem that has become a home-away-from-home for Americans and Canadians. A non-profit hive of activity, it gives Do-Gooders a good name! All revenues go to outreach projects such as providing 30,000 meals a year to locals in the poorer, far-flung edges of town and jungle.

Every aspect contributes to the fund-raising. There's a popular cafe, book exchange, and bar. But the weekly schedule is crammed with yoga, movies, line-dancing, painting/drawing, bridge, cooking class, a non-denominational worship service, local talent nights, and the most popular Saturday market co-op around. Pat takes Zumba and Spanish lessons. (What do I take ? ---  pictures!)

But last night was a magical 2-hour concert by a local group called the Banderas Bay Jazz All-Stars. These guys have played with Santana, Credence Clearwater,  Paul Butterfield, and tour elsewhere in the warmer months. Each of the quartet is an absolute master of his instrument, as the solos proved. They close their eyes and disappear into the music right before your eyes. Original tunes (like a haunting flute echo of the whales in the bay) to "You Are My Sunshine" (coincidentally Pat's childhood fave) to Marvin Gaye's "What's Goin' On?" to "Ode to Billy Joe" --- all jazzed up and flying high freestyling. Closed with "Europa", a sultry riff you would recognize right away. But the sax/flute player Bryan Savage is an unearthly talent, making the capacity crowd roar as he took us real high and real low. Listen in to him on itunes or CD's if you can. Just amazing.