WASHED OUT, SO WASHED IN

Very strict rules now about campground alcohol and noise, so another eerily quiet night at our tent site near Jasper. Some nostalgia as we went for pancakes at the exact same Smitty's as in our first Rockies trip together in 1996 (funny, the waitress seems about 16 years older...). Jasper has a real village feel to it ---- their slogan is "What's a National Park doing in a small town?" But there are changes: way more community activism (like the lush community veggie garden, a favourite cause of Pat's) but almost no elk or deer wandering the streets. And her namesake lake now has dozens of  luxurious "bungalows" with restricted access.

The morning sun turned to violent thunderstorm so we drove on, turning eastbound and homeward. Great to see two majestic caribou on the roadside --- that's more like it! Stopped at the library in Hinton for wifi and discovered an inspired program ---- recommended reading in brown paper bags. You don't judge the book by the cover, get it?? Also noted a massive woodchip plant and treated the van to an overdue oil change, at a quick-lube suggested by a friendly 6'10" local coal miner. But the main claim to fame in Hinton is Canada's longest freshwater boardwalk ---- 3 kilometres through marsh, fens, and a massive beaver hutch. Dam impressive.

More lashing rain (4" predicted in next 2 days), so on to Edson for the night. Campgrounds are flooded so we're not complaining about having a cozy motel room and hot shower. Only thing is we got soakers going out for Extra Foods!