BANGKOK BEFORE IT EXPLODES? (Second of 2 today)

Bangkok is one of many Asian cities with growing pains and stretch marks. There are 80-storey condos and falling-down river huts. There are noisy Chinese motorbikes and smooooth high-end Audi's. Starbucks and shrines, each with their own devoted following. Thai's don't seem to eat any meal at home --- the sidewalks are covered with vendors of fruit, bbq meat, vile soups, drinks with no name, and dim sum buns. The river that used to be called Asia's Venice is still a watery highway for commuters and freight. Watch out for those fantail speedboats; they're powered by 350 Chev V-8 motors left here by the American troops in the Vietnam era! The buildings on the water can be very old or very new.

I had to have a rivet repaired on my levi shorts, while I still had them on. Careful with those pliers and hammer, buddy! (Don't Bangkok, if you know what I mean...)

The gay and lesbian scene is very active and accepted. But the famous Bangkok sex-show scene is demeaning to the women, ickky to most who go in, and full of rip-off scams. Dozens of  "pleasure bars" show you a "menu" with 25 distasteful things that the young girls can do with their ---ahem --- body. Nearby, the gay pick-up alley is no better. On the other hand, a positive surprise is the huge green park a few blocks away. It resembles Central Park with its fringe of tall structures, runners, cyclists, dancers, and whimsical topiary. Does your town park have Komodo dragons sunning by the ditch?

Back on the street, guys play Thai chess in the swirling traffic. But a political chess game will be played out on the same streets Monday the 13th. Anti-government crowds in the hundreds of thousands have vowed to shut down Bangkok, to protest rigged elections and corruption. In return, the shambles of a government have vowed to crush the demonstrations. We have seen the ominous build-up of forces on both sides, and the talk is of nothing else.Cities all over Thailand will suffer the same.

We are traveling to the far north, near the borders of Laos and Myanmar before the showdown. But we'll be back in a week or so. Will there be peace or violence? Watch the news, we're in it.