This morning Castro's ashes were interred in a ceremony that was surprisingly not televised either locally or internationally. It all fits with Fidel's insistence to the end that his image and name would never be a focus ---- the Revolution should be in the spotlight, now and siempre. But we're in Mexico now, having hopped over Cuba in a Soviet-era Antonov 158. It looked and felt like a 1980 Lada but got us to Havana. Then frustrating and endless chaos at the airport, with shifting lineups, sheep-like crowds, and currency exchange scams. Including another short hop (in a modern Airbus), we endured 15 hours in transit to good old Isla Mujeres.
We walked from the ferry groggy but relieved to return to Room 7 at Sol Dorado, a familiar/gardeny/quiet oasis in the centro of town. Pia and Marcellina happy to see us again. The laundry boy happy to get cleaned up, and dig into home cookin'.
The island has been even further commercialized since our last stop-in eleven months ago. All the locals I've talked to over the years sadly agree "it's about the money" as hordes of day-tripping gringos arrive. Dozens more coffee shops/restaurants/junk shops --- at least 50 sombreros for every head that goes by! And at the end of an active airstrip --- a bullring has been set up. Who wants to see bullfights when you can drink and shop instead??
But the beautiful crystal waters are still here. Colourful snorkeling just walking in from shore. Warm shallow turquoise waves, salting your hair like the rim of a marguerita glass! Local fishermen still toss their nets among the swimmers and pull in dinner!
It's the lead-up week to Mexico's most revered figure, the Virgin of Guadalupe. Processions parade brassily down side streets. Nightly outdoor entertainment feature dancers, singers, music of all kinds. And it's a true Mexican celebration, not contrived for tourists. Mexico is showing a lot of prosperity and progressive change. One is a fierce basketball tournament where the women don't play like girls. The most startling, though, was a same-sex wedding on a public beach at sunset. Not long ago this couple would have been attacked; now their mothers crowd in for selfies! Pat and I were amazed and felt privileged to witness.
Each day ends with a spectacular sunset. We're so happy to have come from the third world to the second. And Isla is the best R&R til we get home. Now, where's that taco stand?!
We walked from the ferry groggy but relieved to return to Room 7 at Sol Dorado, a familiar/gardeny/quiet oasis in the centro of town. Pia and Marcellina happy to see us again. The laundry boy happy to get cleaned up, and dig into home cookin'.
The island has been even further commercialized since our last stop-in eleven months ago. All the locals I've talked to over the years sadly agree "it's about the money" as hordes of day-tripping gringos arrive. Dozens more coffee shops/restaurants/junk shops --- at least 50 sombreros for every head that goes by! And at the end of an active airstrip --- a bullring has been set up. Who wants to see bullfights when you can drink and shop instead??
But the beautiful crystal waters are still here. Colourful snorkeling just walking in from shore. Warm shallow turquoise waves, salting your hair like the rim of a marguerita glass! Local fishermen still toss their nets among the swimmers and pull in dinner!
It's the lead-up week to Mexico's most revered figure, the Virgin of Guadalupe. Processions parade brassily down side streets. Nightly outdoor entertainment feature dancers, singers, music of all kinds. And it's a true Mexican celebration, not contrived for tourists. Mexico is showing a lot of prosperity and progressive change. One is a fierce basketball tournament where the women don't play like girls. The most startling, though, was a same-sex wedding on a public beach at sunset. Not long ago this couple would have been attacked; now their mothers crowd in for selfies! Pat and I were amazed and felt privileged to witness.
Each day ends with a spectacular sunset. We're so happy to have come from the third world to the second. And Isla is the best R&R til we get home. Now, where's that taco stand?!
No comments:
Post a Comment