After 18 years we bus to Caleta Buena (“Beautiful
Cove”) on the road from Giron to Cienfuegos. As with all beauty spots, it is
now “discovered” and even attracts prosperous Cubans. But so calm and blissful
in water and breeze. A natural “hole” in the rock ledges lets you swim with the
fishes ---- how do they (and us) get in and out? This is one of two magical
places on this trip why there’s snorkel gear in our packs!
A bus stuffy in the tropical heat took us to the
UNESCO World Heritage Site of Cienfuegos, historic refuge of pirates and
birthplace of the cha-cha-cha. There’s too many Spanish churches, palaces, and
museums to shake your cha-cha at. Instead, dance with the street life.
Surprisingly modern boulevards and pedestrian malls. Meagre Christmas displays
(Dec. 25 is an official holiday here since the Pope’s visit in 1998!) As many
horse and cycle taxis as 4-wheeled ones. Patriotic displays of flags and
heroes. Walls of pirated but toe-tapping hip-swinging local music CD’s.
The 9km walk to the bay shore passes variety from
sidewalk bike repair to lavish Gothic/Venetian/Moorish mansions from the
Spanish colonial days of sugar and slaves. Public art parks include this one of
oversized hammer head, bicycle pedals, and coffee grinder. A gazebo at the end
of this seaside rainbow brought a much appreciated coffee Cubano.
We always stay in Casa Particulares, private homes
that are now allowed to take in guests. In this one, Italian-inspired Yosvani is
renovating a classic home on three levels --- been there, done that! (You’ll
notice that the surprisingly large meals are all prepared and served by men…)
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