In the last few days we've boated/walked/bussed/border crossed/bussed from Caye Caulker to Belize City to Playa del Carmen. That includes the most crowded boat (60 on a ferry with capacity of 40) and the longest bus ride (5 hours, second class) of the trip. And the change from Rasta English in Belize to familiar friendly Spanish in good old Mexico. The overcrowded motorboat snaked through the Belizean keys like a crazed drug smuggler (hmmmm). Then a walk in morning heat to the bus station in Belize City. We passed the century-old swing bridge that girl-powered Pat helped swivel (with 6 other strong guys) years ago. Then the usual very interesting milk-run school bus to the Mexican border. (We haven't been on a bus with that many chickens since Egypt!)
Glad to arrive in Chetumal, the capital city of Mexico's Quintana Roo state. But there's no other gringos --- just markets, ripped-up main streets, and all conversation in Spanish which we like practicing. A long morning walk along the shore showed marble government buildings, lone fishermen in the mangroves, and weirdly ---- a Sam's Club featuring 65" TV's!! Easy decision to buy some fruit and jump a slow Mayab bus north through sugar cane fields to the resort area of Xcaret, Xplore, and Xcuseme.
Arrived in Playa del Carmen, a beach town we remembered as hip but not especially appealing. At first we were appalled at the massive expansion in mega-shops and crowded walking streets. Wrist bands are a giveaway that there were cruise ship daytrippers and all-inclusive package people in shopping and drinking frenzy. Faux Incas flew off a 80-foot pole.
The only interesting car in Playa Car was half a car! Massive beach condos and retail plazas are still going up up up. But slowly we were won over by the beautiful shores, turquoise waters, and gentleness of the balmy evenings. It's even possible to find good cheap rooms and food if you go native. If you want a cosmopolitan mix of European, Hispanic, and gringo vibes you'll give PdC an A, see? Si.
Glad to arrive in Chetumal, the capital city of Mexico's Quintana Roo state. But there's no other gringos --- just markets, ripped-up main streets, and all conversation in Spanish which we like practicing. A long morning walk along the shore showed marble government buildings, lone fishermen in the mangroves, and weirdly ---- a Sam's Club featuring 65" TV's!! Easy decision to buy some fruit and jump a slow Mayab bus north through sugar cane fields to the resort area of Xcaret, Xplore, and Xcuseme.
Arrived in Playa del Carmen, a beach town we remembered as hip but not especially appealing. At first we were appalled at the massive expansion in mega-shops and crowded walking streets. Wrist bands are a giveaway that there were cruise ship daytrippers and all-inclusive package people in shopping and drinking frenzy. Faux Incas flew off a 80-foot pole.
The only interesting car in Playa Car was half a car! Massive beach condos and retail plazas are still going up up up. But slowly we were won over by the beautiful shores, turquoise waters, and gentleness of the balmy evenings. It's even possible to find good cheap rooms and food if you go native. If you want a cosmopolitan mix of European, Hispanic, and gringo vibes you'll give PdC an A, see? Si.
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