We left rainy Honduras in a 3-passenger Cessna like the one I learned to fly in ---- but the pilot looked 20 and wouldn't let me override the autopilot! Clouds at 8,000 feet gave way to rainbows, distant cruise ships, and turquoise seas surrounding white and coral islets. Landing in Belize City, the currency became "B dollars" and the language mostly English (until 1973, Belize was the colony of "British Honduras"). Seventeen years since our last time here, we gawked at the sprawl and chaos at the docks. So, jump on the first boat and out to good old Caye ("Key") Caulker.
Except not so good anymore. It WAS a row of wooden docks and just 3 sand lanes, with guest houses on hurricane stilts. Now it IS a jumble of dozens of streets, a town with schools and playgrounds. Still some shacks with tin roofs and faded tropical colours, and still a mellow vibe --- the official slogan is "Go Slow". Is that because there are only golf carts and bicycles?
We stayed at Paradise Too for one night (great spot on beach, bad wifi, no hot water). Then transferred to Paradise Hotel one night (better despite being alongside the old cemetery). Settled in China Town Hotel with a/c, tv, roof top swings. Budget-busting @$60, $60, $48; the rooms got cheaper as they got better!
Very noticeable is the large and loud number of Rastafarians from Jamaica. And the influx of Chinese entrepreneurs who now seem to run all the convenience stores. Others include self-exiled Canucks, Germans, and Zimbabwaens. Back streets are reminiscent of Kenya, front streets like classic tropical outposts --- 1970's Isla Mujeres or late 1950's Key West. The cargo dock unloads modern building materials. The electricity is generated by huge diesel noise-makers.
Still, there's charm where you can find it. The snorkeling is a clear and warm look at another world. The sunset frames a simple way of life. The night scene is full of reggae drumming, open grilling, and curious street dogs. As usual, the taste left is bittersweet because the place is so memorable from the past. Tomorrow it's back to the mainland and on to a bus heading north. Un-Belize-able!
We stayed at Paradise Too for one night (great spot on beach, bad wifi, no hot water). Then transferred to Paradise Hotel one night (better despite being alongside the old cemetery). Settled in China Town Hotel with a/c, tv, roof top swings. Budget-busting @$60, $60, $48; the rooms got cheaper as they got better!
Still, there's charm where you can find it. The snorkeling is a clear and warm look at another world. The sunset frames a simple way of life. The night scene is full of reggae drumming, open grilling, and curious street dogs. As usual, the taste left is bittersweet because the place is so memorable from the past. Tomorrow it's back to the mainland and on to a bus heading north. Un-Belize-able!
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