It’s been a transformational 9 days as we are now in a
totally different, more traditional, part of Mexico. From Playa del Carmen we
took a van and a flight from resort green to the 50,000,000 people of Mexico
City. The surprise was the nearby snowcaps --- Mexico has champion skiers!
From there another flight to the mountain town of Oaxaca,
known for veggies and silver. Main sights are the 15thC cathedral
and surrounding park. (And I finally found a rare red and tan Mustang!). Lots
of churches and a really progressive pedestrian-only street. Coffee shops, galleries,
dining, students, and gawkers like us. Breaking the spell was a gruelling
overnight 10 hour slow bus ride.
But we had crossed 3 mountain ranges to get to Puerto
Escondido, on the Pacific Ocean not far from Guatemala.
Our one-month
one-bedroom rental is on the second floor, breezy and magnificent ocean views.
It’s run by Giuliano and Roberta, an Italian couple big on nutrition and
friendliness. In the yard are papaya, coconut, mango and banana trees! The
drawbacks are NO television, No microwave and NO oven, no toaster, no can
opener, etc. --- could you get along without those? On our dirt road is
constant old Mexico. Roosters by night, feral dogs by day, blaring brass bands,
itinerant preachers, even dynamiting one block away. Almost no one in town
speaks English. Even garbage fires in 85F heat. But unlike last month, we
finally have a covered balcony with sea breeze and sea view.
The morning hike on the wide sweep of beach can go two ways. One is to the central shore, but on the way is a small hill with steps that’s a miniature old pueblo village. What’s amazing is a daily buzz as the fisherman sell their overnight catch. Very interesting, colourful, and friendly.
The travel has left me with an infection in the throat,
nose, and ears --- I can’t hear on my right side! Local doctors are cheap (C$3
for an exam, $20 for 2 prescriptions). So we’re hoping the antibiotics cure
everything and I can get back into the waves with the surfers --- check out
part 2 today!
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