NO-PALM SUNDAY

Mornings are active times due to the heat build-up later on. Smaller waves attract smaller surfers (and ho-daddies like us). Locals really get into sand-burials. But there's also an all-night wake for a woman rumored to have been killed by her husband. On a lighter note, mornings are laundry time because the solar dryer is always available.

Two good guys to know about. One is our Italian landlord Giuliano who is turning out to be a businessman turned artist/futurist/philosopher/raconteur/bon vivant/ and lifeguard who teaches kids to swim and surf. That's him in the white top and red shorts. The other is my second doctor here, Doc Francisco, a cool guy who gave up the bright lights of Mexico City to live in this tranquillo beach town.  He diagnosed a mild bronchitis with inflammation to the ears. I'm feeling mucho better after a week of popping pills like jelly beans.

We finally went to the huge local market. Full of chatter, bargaining, and traditional open stalls. Meat and fish covered with you-know-whats. Clothes, veggies, and a row of flowers where the aromas are 
more fragrant! Meanwhile I'm fascinated by the huge mango trees everywhere. I always thought they were small exotic plants but they're as common as maples back home. They're growing and ripening very quickly and will be falling like maple seeds too.

Last Sunday we were treated to a bird's eye view of a guy with a machete taking down a 50 foot high palm tree. With just rope for safety and wearing leather flip-flops, he methodically hacked away and in under 3 hours--- No-palm Sunday! (The tree was healthy and fruitful but the neighbour feared a falling coconut would knock some sense into her husband?)

As always, we are fascinated by local nature, two different hummingbirds for example. The first one fits the description of a female black-crested coquette. The second one we're not sure --- can anyone out there ID this Mexican wing-whipper?

PUERTO ESCONDIDO (1st of 2 posts today)

It’s been a transformational 9 days as we are now in a totally different, more traditional, part of Mexico. From Playa del Carmen we took a van and a flight from resort green to the 50,000,000 people of Mexico City. The surprise was the nearby snowcaps --- Mexico has champion skiers!

From there another flight to the mountain town of Oaxaca, known for veggies and silver. Main sights are the 15^thC cathedral and surrounding park. (And I finally found a rare red and tan Mustang!). Lots of churches and a really progressive pedestrian-only street. Coffee shops, galleries, dining, students, and gawkers like us. Breaking the spell was a gruelling overnight 10 hour slow bus ride.

But we had crossed 3 mountain ranges to get to Puerto Escondido, on the Pacific Ocean not far from Guatemala.

 Our one-month one-bedroom rental is on the second floor, breezy and magnificent ocean views. It’s run by Giuliano and Roberta, an Italian couple big on nutrition and friendliness. In the yard are papaya, coconut, mango and banana trees! The drawbacks are NO television, No microwave and NO oven, no toaster, no can opener, etc. --- could you get along without those? On our dirt road is constant old Mexico. Roosters by night, feral dogs by day, blaring brass bands, itinerant preachers, even dynamiting one block away. Almost no one in town speaks English. Even garbage fires in 85F heat. But unlike last month, we finally have a covered balcony with sea breeze and sea view. 

The morning hike on the wide sweep of beach can go two ways. One is to the central shore, but on the way is a small hill with steps that’s a miniature old pueblo village. What’s amazing is a daily buzz as the fisherman sell their overnight catch. Very interesting, colourful, and friendly.

The travel has left me with an infection in the throat, nose, and ears --- I can’t hear on my right side! Local doctors are cheap (C$3 for an exam, $20 for 2 prescriptions). So we’re hoping the antibiotics cure everything and I can get back into the waves with the surfers --- check out part 2 today!

SURF CITY MEXICO (2nd of 2 today)

Puerto Escondido is the surfing mecca of Mexico. Between August and November the waves are up to 40 feet high. Champion surfers come from as far as Australia or South Africa for this stop on the World Surfing Tour. But even now the waves are constant, pounding, wild but tempting. Zicatela is on the far end of the bay and seen from our balcony.

So it’s mesmerizing to walk the shore and feel the power of the waves. Most of the beach is posted No Swimming because of the undertow, tumbling force, and lack of lifeguards. 

Eventually you get to the Punta where waves crash against rocks. You climb up a steep goat path and get awesome views of all the action. 

Surfers are all ages, some reliving their younger glory. Men and women, many languages, colourful gear. They’re all here to shoot the curl hang ten, and ride the wicked Mexican Pipeline. 

 These diehards have a short dirt road to get a room, eat fruit, and maybe talk about waxing --- their boards, not their chest!

So when in Rome, do as the Romans do. We’ve got the surf bug and we’re going in…